The following is a Q&A session with Dr Eoin Mc Donnell, Cosmetic Physician, and Dermal Therapist Sam Noske, of Rewind Skin & Laser Centre
1- What are the most common treatments you perform on patients in their 20s/30s/40s/50s+?
Lip fillers are becoming more popular at a young age and many are starting anti-wrinkle injections early for wrinkle prevention. We also find we are doing mild skin peels, anti-acne treatments and LED therapy. For men in their 20’s, the main issue is acne and skin peels are the mainstay of treatment
In this age group we perform anti-wrinkle injections and fillers and may introduce skin needling for collagen induction. The hormonal changes associated with pregnancy see an increase again in acne and also pigmentation changes so in this age group light-based devices in the form of IPL and laser start becoming very useful.
In men, Post-acne scarring (PAS) treatments are one of the main issues and we would use a combination of skin needling and fractional laser once their active acne has settled. In all groups we recommend a good at-home skin regime using a good cosmeceutical range containing active ingredients.
Treatments are mostly similar to people their 30’s with an increase in treatments to deal with the increasing hormonal changes. Pigmentation and redness is a more prevalent issue and laser and IPL are fantastic treatment methods with little downtime.
Volume loss increases, necessitating the need for volume replacement with either fillers or thread lifting.
In this age group, replacing lost volume and stimulating collagen in a natural way is key through dermal fillers, collagen induction therapy and thread lifting. We are more aggressive with laser and light based therapies for sun damaged skin which improves fine lines and wrinkles, vascular problems such as rosacea and visible blood vessels and evens out skin irregularities and pigmentation.
2- How does the skin of someone in their 20s differ to someone in their 50s?
In our 20’s our skin is still full of healthy collagen and elastin and has a high cell turnover rate. Our skin generally hasn’t been subjected to the ageing process of slowing metabolism, volume loss in our facial fat pads or facial bone loss that all happens as we get older. So generally we are just needing to treat for conditions such as acne or possibly skin sensitivity.
By the time we are 50 our skin has been subjected to years of extrinsic factors such as sun and environmental damage, alcohol and smoking, plus intrinsic factors such as illnesses, hormonal changes and the natural volume loss in our skin, facial fat and bone that occurs as part of ageing.All of this, along with decades of facial muscle movements, can lead to fine lines, wrinkles and furrows in the skin, increased pigmentation and visible blood vessels with loss of skin clarity from decreased skin cell turnover as we age.
Without regular treatments, the use of good quality products and a healthy lifestyle then all of the above factors will accelerate our skin ageing.All skins are very different, however, generally speaking, in a 20 year old skin we are looking at preventive treatments and developing good lifestyle habits where as with a 50 year old skin we are looking at correcting the skin damage.
3- What are preventative treatments you would recommend to people in their 20s?
If the person has healthy skin then we would recommend beginning to include a good quality at-home skin regime. Not only will this help get them in the habit of looking after their skin but it will also help to maintain their youthful glow.By using a quality brand with active ingredients including a vitamin A then their skin will love them for it.
We always recommend a Vitamin A, but emphasise using a scientifically backed range…we stock Ultraceuticals including the doctor-only recommendation Ultraceuticals MD range; all Australian-made, with research and development behind every product.
4- At what age should people change their skincare routine?
We don’t think skincare routine is age dependent, more so dependent on your skin’s needs. Ensuring you are seeing a dermal therapist or skin professional regularly will ensure you are on the right track and make sure you are using what you need on your skin, not just what the new buzz products on the market are.
Unfortunately, the market is flooded with new products on a daily basis which have little or no scientific evidence behind them.
5- Are there certain treatments you would never perform on ‘young’ skin?
We don’t agree with anything too aggressive on young skins, unless indicated, and we can generally get away with more regular mild treatments with less potential to damage their skin.
6- At what age should people start having regular professional skin treatments?
In a perfect world, we would recommend regular skin treatments from as soon as they start to notice the hormonal changes, such as getting little spots or possibly developing acne. We want to minimise these as much as possible through regular treatments, use of good products on their skin and most importantly developing good lifestyle habits.
Not only can it be very embarrassing at such an impressionable age, but we want to best prevent or reduce any post acne scarring which is harder for us to treat later on in life once the scarring has occurred.
For those blessed with great skin, then we believe at about 25 is good to start maintenance programs for collagen synthesis (skin needling or laser) and increasing cell turnover with mild skin peels.